Resource Guarding

What it is
Growling, snarling, snapping, and biting as a result of your trying to take something that they have decided is "theirs".  These claimed objects can include things like food, toys, their own, a bed, place on the couch, etc.  Resource guarding is more common than you may think - but with the help of a skilled trainer it can be worked on, resolved, and even sometimes prevented.  

Common Myths regarding Resource Guarding
While many genetically predisposed behaviors have been bred out of domestic dogs, resource guarding is one that, surprisingly, has survived thousands of generations of selective breeding.  While it's unclear as to why that is, research has been done and we close the door on some common myths regarding resource guarding.

• Resource guarding is an abnormal behavior - guarding one's resources (wether they may be food, coveted objects, mates, physical space, etc.) is a behavior necessary for survival in a natural, or wild environment - the dog with the resources is the one who survives, deep down this lies inside our pets' genetic makeup.  
• Resource guarding, because it is genetically predisposed, can not be addressed or fixed - this myth is not limited to resource guarding alone.  While it is true that genetic disposition can make some things easier to learn, and can inhibit the learning of other things, there is no scientific evidence to back up the claim that there is no way to modify the behavior of resource guarding.
• That it can be cured by convincing the dog that resources are everywhere, and not in short supply - the logic behind this is that if the dog sees that resources are not in short supply, then he will have no need to guard these resources - well, dog's don't necessary think using the most logical of thought processes.  While we can absolutely put in place a training plan to work on resource guarding, giving the dog an abundance of resources is not an effective plan.
• That it is a sign of a "dominant" or "pushy" dog - 
• That it is a result of spoiling a dog - resource guarding can surface in dogs of all ages, sizes, genders, and backgrounds.  While that can be proven as a fact, the term "spoiled" can be pretty subjective, and is harder to label.  There is no correlation between training (or a lack there of) and resource guarding.  
  

Types of Resource guarding

• Food guarding - this is the most common form of resource guarding, and can take a few different forms:

1. Dog threatens or bites when approached while eating out of his bowl
   
2. Dog threatens or bites when owner tries to retrieve a food item that has been snatched
   
3. Dog threatens or bites when approached after finding some sort of food item outside
   

• Object guarding - this behavior can crop up in almost any dog - with the severity of the guarding being dependent on the perceived value of the object.  Some commonly guarded objects include:

1. Bones
2. Rawhides
3. Pigs ears
4. Bully sticks
5. Balls
6. Favorite toys
7. Laundry items
8. Kleenex or paper towels
9. Trash items

• Location Guarding - some of the most common location guarding scenarios include:

1. Dog won't let owner or spouse into room, bedroom, or bed once the dog is lying down on the bed
2. Dog is grumpy when messed with while lying down
3. Dog threatens people or other dogs while in his crate or car

• Owner guarding - this can be seen when dogs appear to be selectively aggressive towards approaching dogs, and sometimes people, in the presence of their owner (both on and off leash).  
• In addition to any of the above, dogs can also have a combination of the different types of resource guarding.  

Although not necessarily resource guarding in a traditional sense, it is worth mentioning that some dogs may express similar behaviors in regards to being handled - so in theory, they are resource guarding their bodies.  Some of the common types of handling that may not be tolerated include:

• -next

Some of the Signs
Body language is something I can't stress enough of when it comes to communicating effectively with our dogs. When it comes to resource guarding - we have to keep in mind that dogs are strong, intelligent animals, that are equipped with the tools (mainly their teeth) to cause quite a bit of harm.  Rather than resorting to most force necessary, they tend to give us a lot of outward signs to express their inner feelings.  These signs include:

• Freezing Up - also known as a "hard- eyed" stare.  Typically, the dog will stop doing what he is doing (chewing, eating, etc.) and give a steady stare at the perceived threat.
• Accelerated Consumption - unlike Freexing up, the dog increases the intensity and speed of whatever activity he is doing - he may eat faster, chew faster, etc.  
• Growling - typically a low, steady, ominous sounding growl.
• Snarling - exposing of the teeth, as well as pulling the lips up.  This snarl can happen before, after, or during any of the other signs listed.  
• Snapping - sometimes called an "air bite" - no, you weren't fast enough to avoid getting bit, your dog DELIBERATELY missed making contact.  Dogs have the skill, speed, and precision of a finely tuned athlete - they don't miss.  When they mean to bite, the bite; when the mean to snap, they snap.
• An Inhibited Bite - sometimes called a "soft mouth".  This happens when a dog makes contact with the skin, but does minimal damage, and may not even break skin.  It's a very controlled bite.  

How to Prevent it
There are a few standard practice activities for both puppies, as well as adult dogs, who do not exhibit any resource guarding tendencies.  These include:

• Chew toy and bone exchanges - this can be done using two identical chews/toys, or a chew/toy and a very high value food reward.  Regularly trading your dog his chew/toy for a tasty, high value treat can give him something to look forward to when someone comes close while he/she is chewing.
• Food bowl bonuses - while the dog is eating, approach and add something of high value (like hot dogs, wet food, etc.  This can be done by either dropping the treat into the bowl, or picking up the bowl, adding the treat, and returning the bowl to the dog.
• Chewy toy and bone sharing - This exercise is simply you holding on to one end of the chew toy/bone while your dog chews on, and enjoys the other end.
• Bite inhibition - teach your puppies to bite softly, or not at all.

How to treat it
Resource guarding is not something to be taken lightly.  If you have never dealt with it first hand, seek the help of a trained professional, who uses positive methods.  Counter-conditioning and desensitizing can work wonders for a resource guarder!  Traditional training methods can cause stress and anxiety, and actually make the issue much worse!

Resources
Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson
Dog Language: An Encyclopedia of Canine Behavior by Roger Abrantes
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
The Domestic Dog by James Serpell