Barn Hunt in a Nutshell

• What it is: Dogs and their handlers work as a team to hunt out rats hidden in a hay obstacle course.  Dogs must indicate a number of rats, ignore distractor tubes, climb on top of hay bales, and negotiate an 18" wide and tall tunnel. 
  
• Prior Training: Basic Pet Manners and Obedience, as well as the dog being able to focus, learn and perform complex behaviors in a very distracting environment.  Some specific behaviors to teach are good attention under distractions , sit, down, stay, and leash manners.  
• Physical Demands on Dog: High
• Physical Demands on Handler: Mild. 
• Most suitable breeds: Various breeds - there are no specific structural or breed specific demands.  The only limiting factor in this sport is the size of the tunnel, so as long as the dog can fit through the tunnel, they can play!
• Best Temperament: Happy-go-lucky, workaholics; this sport is suitable for both low and high energy dogs alike.  
• Training Complexity: Moderate
• Mental Stimulation: Moderate
• Physical Stimulation: Moderate
• Recreational Opportunities: Low - this is a new and growing sport, there aren't many places yet that offer Barn Hunt training and/or classes.  
• Opportunities to Compete: High.
• Cost: Moderate - in addition to the cost of training and classes if necessary, trial fees are about $20-$25 per run. 

History of the Sport
Barn Hunt became a titling sport in 2012.  Prior to the creation of the sport, specific breeds (various Terriers, Dachshunds, etc.) were allowed to compete in Earthdog and Go to Ground hunting events through the American Kennel Club.  Barn Hunt was created to allow dogs of all pure and mixed breeds an opportunity to title in a sport that highlighted the instinct to hunt vermin.  For more information, check out the official Barn Hunt Association's website.

Difficulty Levels 

• Instinct - Dogs must indicate a rat that is hidden in one of three visible tubes.
  
• Novice - Dogs are given 2 minutes to find one rat, ignore one bedding, and ignore one blank tube.  They must also climb and put all four feet on one bale of hay and go through a short, straight tunnel.  They can do these things in any order.
• Open - Dogs are given 2 minutes and 30 seconds to find two rats (at least one of which must be hidden elevated, on top of a bale of straw), ignore two bedding, and ignore one blank tube.  They must also climb and put all four feet on one bale of hay and go through an L-shaped tunnel.  They can do these things in any order. 
• Senior - Dogs are given 3 minutes and 30 seconds to find four rats (at least two of which must be hidden elevated, on top of a bale of straw), ignore three bedding, and ignore one blank tube.  They must also climb and put all four feet on one bale of hay and go through a short, straight tunnel.  They can do these things in any order.

• Masters - Dogs are given 4 minutes and 30 seconds.  A handler must call clear after a dog has run through a course containing a total of ten tubes.  These tubes can include any combination of 1-5 rats, and 7-3 bedding.  Any or all, or any combination thereof, of rats can be hidden elevated or on the ground.  They must also climb and put all four feet on one bale of hay and go through a short, straight tunnel.  They can do these things in any order.

Sanctioning Organizations

• Barn Hunt Association (BHA)
  

How to get Started
A group class or taking private lessons is a wonderful place to start; not only will you and your dog learn the necessary skills and behaviors, get to practice regularly, but exposure to other dogs and distractions is great preparation for a show!   

Basic Supplies Needed
Equipment needed for classes typically includes:

• While the dog will run completely naked in competition, in training it is good to have a flat/buckle collar or a well fitting harness
• 4-6 foot nylon or leather leash
• Treats or toys to reward the dog
• Rat tubes, rats, and rat bedding
• Hay bales

Local Training Opportunities 

• Infinite Pawsibilities will be offering classes and lessons beginning July 2015

Local Clubs

• Gateway Terrier Association 

As the weather gets warmer, and the days get longer, we tend to do more with our dogs.  We take them on walks, out to parks, to different events and festivals around town, some of us even take vacations and travel with our dogs.  Amidst all the fun and festivities, many of us never think twice about the thought of our dog being lost.  According to the ASPCA, every year 3.9 million dogs are picked up as strays and brought to animal shelters.  Of those 2.9 million, 542,000 are returned to their owners.  While the statistics don't specify the circumstances of which the dogs were returned (wether it was because of identification on collars/tags, microchips, or the owners calling the animal shelter looking for their pet) one thing is for sure - proper identification can increase the likelihood of your pet making it home.  

Proper identification comes in many forms.  While it's good to have at least one form of identification, having more than one never hurts.  Many local pet stores carry a variety of collars, some even have tag engraving machines in store, for identification you can take with you right then and there!  

Tags and Nameplates
Identification that is attached to the dog via a collar of some sort.  Not the most permanent form of identification, as tags can fall off of collars, and the collars themselves can be removed from the dog.  Important information to have on the tag includes:

• Your phone number - even an alternate, or second phone number if the tag is big enough
• Key phrases such as: "Reward", "Needs Meds", "has Allergies", "Special Diet", "I'm Deaf", etc.  

In addition to purchasing tags in local pet stores, there are also a few nice hand made tags that can be found online:

• Aggie's Anvil
  
• Fetching Tags
  

Embroidered Collars
In addition to tags and nameplates, you can also purchase a collar with your phone number, and other information embroidered directly onto the collar itself.  These are a bit more permanent than tags, since there is nothing to fall off of the collar, but they can still be removed relatively easily from your dog.  Embroidered collars typically need to be special ordered, some of my favorite online stores selling embroidered collars include:

• Collarmania
  
• Ella's Lead
  

Microchipping
A Microchip is a small, smaller than a grain of rice, device that is implanted under your dog's skin.  This is a very simple procedure that can be done by your veterinarian, some shelters even offer low cost microchip clinics.  Typically the microchip is inserted, via a needle, on the dog's back, between the shoulder blades.  Once it has been inserted you can register your contact information to the microchip.  This information is then store in an online database that can be easily accessed by shelters and other rescue groups.  It is important to keep this information as up to date as possible, this can be done online or even with a phone call to the microchip company.  It is also important to note, that while the microchip is more permeant than both a tag and a collar, in rare cases the microchip can migrate under the skin to another part of the body - while this causes no harm to your dog, it can make it harder to identify your dog if he or she should become lost.  If your dog is already microchipped, it never hurts to have your veterinarian scan for the chip, to make sure everything is as it should be, when you go in for your dog's yearly check-up.
Some of the most common Microchip companies are:

• AVID
  
• Home Again
  
• 24 Hour Pet Watch

Lost!
Even with the best care, and most careful precautions - dogs are still dogs and may become lost.  There are things you can do that can help increase the likelihood of getting your dog returned.

• Enlist as many people to your search as you can - many states have online groups dedicated solely on finding lost pets - Missouri Lost & Found Paws is one of these groups.
• Make phone calls to local veterinarians, animal control, and law enforcement to help get the word out
• Print up, and distribute fliers and posters - it is helpful if these are in color.  Include a clear and recent photograph of your pet; all words should be typed, large and clear.  Be sure to have information such as the dog's name, the word "Reward", a contact phone number so you can be reached, any important information such as "shy", "do not chase", etc. if these things apply to your dog.  

They say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure - this can't more true when it comes to keeping your pet safe and sound!

Rally Obedience in a Nutshell

• What it is: Dogs and their handlers complete a variety of obedience behaviors in the sequence of a course designed by the judge.  Each course has signs posted along the way to direct each team as to which behaviors are to be performed and what order to perform them.
  
• Prior Training: Basic Pet Manners and Obedience, as well as the dog being able to focus, learn and perform complex behaviors in a very distracting environment.  Some specific behaviors to teach are good attention under distractions , sit, down, stand, stay, leash manners, heeling.  
• Physical Demands on Dog: Mild
• Physical Demands on Handler: Mild. 
• Most suitable breeds: Various breeds - there are no specific structural or breed specific demands..
• Best Temperament: Happy-go-lucky, workaholics; this sport is suitable for both low and high energy dogs alike.  
• Training Complexity: Moderate
• Mental Stimulation: Moderate
• Physical Stimulation: Moderate
• Recreational Opportunities: Good - there are many places that offer "recreational" Rally Obedience classes.  
• Opportunities to Compete: High
• Cost: Moderate - in addition to the cost of basic supplies and a class if necessary, trial fees can range from $20-$25 per class, depending on the sanctioning organization. 

About the Sport
Very distinct from traditional competitive obedience, in comparison Rally Obedience seems more like a game.  It was originally envisioned as a sport to promote a positive atmosphere and to further strengthen the human-canine bond.
Rally takes a variety of useful, real-life obedience behaviors and strings them together into a fluidly moving "course".  Handler/dog teams navigate through the course, guided by signs showing both pictures and words, and are judged upon accurate response to cues, as we as time on the course.
Like other dog sports, competition is separated into levels of difficulty.  Depending on the level, a course may have anywhere from 18-22 signs to be completed correctly, and may be performed on or off leash.  Courses are designed by the judge, and can vary from one competition to the next. 

History of the Sport
Rally was originally conceived in 2000 by a long time obedience and agility competition, Charles "Bud" Kramer.  With the steady growth of both Obedience and Agility competitions, he envisioned a fun alternative to traditional obedience   He proposed his program to the AKC in 2000, who reviewed the proposal and later launched the program in 2005.  Simultaneously, the APDT launched it's Rally program, in 2001.

Some Behaviors Seen in Rally Obedience 

• Heeling
  
• Halt/Sit/Down and walk around the dog
• 270-degree turn (right or left)
• About turns (left, right, and U-turns)
• Bar, Panel, and Broad jumps 
• Call Front, Finishes (right and left)
• Sidesteps
• Serpentine weaving around cones
• Figure 8's around cones (with and without food distractions)

Sanctioning Organizations

• The American Kennel Club (AKC)
  
• The Australian Shepherd Club of American (ASCA)
• United Kennel Club (UKC)
• The Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT)
• World Cynosports Rally 
• Canine Work and Games (C-Wags)

How to get Started
A group class is a wonderful place to start; not only will you and your dog learn the necessary skills and behaviors, get to practice regularly, but exposure to other dogs and distractions is great preparation for a show! 

Basic Supplies Needed
Equipment needed for classes typically includes:

• Flat or buckle collar
• 4-6 foot nylon or leather leash
• Treats or toys to reward the dog
• Rally Signs (these can be purchased or made)
• Obedience jumps (panel, bar, broad)

Books

• Click Your Way to Rally Obedience by Pam Denison
• The Rally Course Book: A Guide to AKC Rally Courses by Janice Dearth
• The Ultimate Guide to Rally-O by Deb Eldredge DVM
• Rally On (Training Manual for Rally Obedience) by Marie Sawford

Other Resources

• J and J Dog Supplies - Equipment 

Local Clubs

• Greater St. Louis Training Club (GSTC)

What it is
Growling, snarling, snapping, and biting as a result of your trying to take something that they have decided is "theirs".  These claimed objects can include things like food, toys, their own, a bed, place on the couch, etc.  Resource guarding is more common than you may think - but with the help of a skilled trainer it can be worked on, resolved, and even sometimes prevented.  

Common Myths regarding Resource Guarding
While many genetically predisposed behaviors have been bred out of domestic dogs, resource guarding is one that, surprisingly, has survived thousands of generations of selective breeding.  While it's unclear as to why that is, research has been done and we close the door on some common myths regarding resource guarding.

• Resource guarding is an abnormal behavior - guarding one's resources (wether they may be food, coveted objects, mates, physical space, etc.) is a behavior necessary for survival in a natural, or wild environment - the dog with the resources is the one who survives, deep down this lies inside our pets' genetic makeup.  
• Resource guarding, because it is genetically predisposed, can not be addressed or fixed - this myth is not limited to resource guarding alone.  While it is true that genetic disposition can make some things easier to learn, and can inhibit the learning of other things, there is no scientific evidence to back up the claim that there is no way to modify the behavior of resource guarding.
• That it can be cured by convincing the dog that resources are everywhere, and not in short supply - the logic behind this is that if the dog sees that resources are not in short supply, then he will have no need to guard these resources - well, dog's don't necessary think using the most logical of thought processes.  While we can absolutely put in place a training plan to work on resource guarding, giving the dog an abundance of resources is not an effective plan.
• That it is a sign of a "dominant" or "pushy" dog - 
• That it is a result of spoiling a dog - resource guarding can surface in dogs of all ages, sizes, genders, and backgrounds.  While that can be proven as a fact, the term "spoiled" can be pretty subjective, and is harder to label.  There is no correlation between training (or a lack there of) and resource guarding.  
  

Types of Resource guarding

• Food guarding - this is the most common form of resource guarding, and can take a few different forms:

1. Dog threatens or bites when approached while eating out of his bowl
   
2. Dog threatens or bites when owner tries to retrieve a food item that has been snatched
   
3. Dog threatens or bites when approached after finding some sort of food item outside
   

• Object guarding - this behavior can crop up in almost any dog - with the severity of the guarding being dependent on the perceived value of the object.  Some commonly guarded objects include:

1. Bones
2. Rawhides
3. Pigs ears
4. Bully sticks
5. Balls
6. Favorite toys
7. Laundry items
8. Kleenex or paper towels
9. Trash items

• Location Guarding - some of the most common location guarding scenarios include:

1. Dog won't let owner or spouse into room, bedroom, or bed once the dog is lying down on the bed
2. Dog is grumpy when messed with while lying down
3. Dog threatens people or other dogs while in his crate or car

• Owner guarding - this can be seen when dogs appear to be selectively aggressive towards approaching dogs, and sometimes people, in the presence of their owner (both on and off leash).  
• In addition to any of the above, dogs can also have a combination of the different types of resource guarding.  

Although not necessarily resource guarding in a traditional sense, it is worth mentioning that some dogs may express similar behaviors in regards to being handled - so in theory, they are resource guarding their bodies.  Some of the common types of handling that may not be tolerated include:

• -next

Some of the Signs
Body language is something I can't stress enough of when it comes to communicating effectively with our dogs. When it comes to resource guarding - we have to keep in mind that dogs are strong, intelligent animals, that are equipped with the tools (mainly their teeth) to cause quite a bit of harm.  Rather than resorting to most force necessary, they tend to give us a lot of outward signs to express their inner feelings.  These signs include:

• Freezing Up - also known as a "hard- eyed" stare.  Typically, the dog will stop doing what he is doing (chewing, eating, etc.) and give a steady stare at the perceived threat.
• Accelerated Consumption - unlike Freexing up, the dog increases the intensity and speed of whatever activity he is doing - he may eat faster, chew faster, etc.  
• Growling - typically a low, steady, ominous sounding growl.
• Snarling - exposing of the teeth, as well as pulling the lips up.  This snarl can happen before, after, or during any of the other signs listed.  
• Snapping - sometimes called an "air bite" - no, you weren't fast enough to avoid getting bit, your dog DELIBERATELY missed making contact.  Dogs have the skill, speed, and precision of a finely tuned athlete - they don't miss.  When they mean to bite, the bite; when the mean to snap, they snap.
• An Inhibited Bite - sometimes called a "soft mouth".  This happens when a dog makes contact with the skin, but does minimal damage, and may not even break skin.  It's a very controlled bite.  

How to Prevent it
There are a few standard practice activities for both puppies, as well as adult dogs, who do not exhibit any resource guarding tendencies.  These include:

• Chew toy and bone exchanges - this can be done using two identical chews/toys, or a chew/toy and a very high value food reward.  Regularly trading your dog his chew/toy for a tasty, high value treat can give him something to look forward to when someone comes close while he/she is chewing.
• Food bowl bonuses - while the dog is eating, approach and add something of high value (like hot dogs, wet food, etc.  This can be done by either dropping the treat into the bowl, or picking up the bowl, adding the treat, and returning the bowl to the dog.
• Chewy toy and bone sharing - This exercise is simply you holding on to one end of the chew toy/bone while your dog chews on, and enjoys the other end.
• Bite inhibition - teach your puppies to bite softly, or not at all.

How to treat it
Resource guarding is not something to be taken lightly.  If you have never dealt with it first hand, seek the help of a trained professional, who uses positive methods.  Counter-conditioning and desensitizing can work wonders for a resource guarder!  Traditional training methods can cause stress and anxiety, and actually make the issue much worse!

Resources
Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson
Dog Language: An Encyclopedia of Canine Behavior by Roger Abrantes
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
The Domestic Dog by James Serpell

Religion, politics, dogs - want to start a (potentially heated) discussion at your next friendly gathering? Bring up any one of those three topics and you are almost guaranteed to get a rise out of someone!   

The rights and wrongs of responsible dog ownership can vary greatly, depending on who you ask and what beliefs that they carry towards dogs in general.
Ask a dog trainer...They will tell you the most responsible thing you can do as a dog owner is to train your dog.  
Ask a dog rescuer......They will tell you the most responsible thing you can do as a dog owner is to spay and neuter your dog.
Ask someone in the pet health industry...They will tell you the most responsible thing you can do as a dog owner is to routinely vaccinate your pet.
Ask an animal control officer...They will tell you the most responsible thing you can do as a dog owner is to be sure your pet is microchipped and wearing up to date identification.   
Ask an exercise enthusiast...They will tell you the most responsible thing you can do as a dog owner is to be sure your dog is walked/run/exercised daily.
These examples are just to name a few!  While they are all wonderful suggestions, they aren't the end all be all of good dog ownership.  
Other hot topics include:

• to crate or not to crate
• appropriate diet
• breeders 
• training methods 
• potty pads and potty training
• etc

Your opinion can differ greatly from those around you, and you can still be a wonderful and responsible dog owner.  So many of us forget this, and we fail to see that despite our differences, we all have one thing in common - our undeniable love for our dogs.  

What's the most responsible thing you can do as a pet owner?  Educate yourself!  Be an advocate for your dog, and make him or her the pet you can enjoy as a family member for the next 10+ years.  You may not agree wholeheartedly with the opinions of your friends, but that's ok - do what's right for you and your pup - there are MANY right ways to be a responsible dog owner.  While I may not have all the answers - I know there are some great resources out there to help guide me in my decisions for my four legged family members.
Why should you train your dog?
Should you spay or neuter your dog?
What about vaccinations?
How should you identify your dog?
How important is daily exercise?
Crate training?
What's the best diet for your pet?
What about responsible breeders?
Training methods?
Potty training?

Fearful dogs hold a special place in my heart - whether their fear comes from weak genetics, lack of early socialization, neglect, or abuse they all live a similar life.  The vast majority of shy and/or fearful dogs are not this way because of a bad experience, or an abusive past - dogs as a species are predisposed to be suspicious of new and unfamiliar things - more often than not it's their genetics combined with their early socializtion (or lack there of).  While the world, to a dog, can be full of new and sometimes scary things, some things can be a lot scarier than others.  Some of the most common things that dogs are afraid of include: 

• Unfamiliar people (men more often than women - especially larger men with deeper voices)
• People with odd silhouettes (carrying bags, wearing hats, etc.)
• People who charge, or approach quickly head on
• Hands reaching over the tops of their heads
• Young children who move quickly or erratically 
• People who themselves are afraid of dogs

Understanding Dog Body Language
I am a firm believer that training is a two way street.  THE BEST thing you can do for your fearful dog is to understand what he is trying to tell you, be his advocate, and his support system.  This illustration by Lili Chin, of Doggie Drawings, shows some great examples of dog body language:

Prevention
While some dogs are more predisposed to being fearful than others, a bit of prevention can go a long way.  Enroll your puppy in a group puppy class for early handling and socialization.  Dr. Sophia Yin has some wonderful suggestions and a great Puppy Socialization Checklist to help with this.  

What Not to Do
Whatever you do, don't force your fearful dog into social situations.  You want them to feel safe, not threatened - and forcing them to be somewhere scary will only increase their amount of fear and anxiety.

When training your shy and/or fearful dog, it's important to be sure that all training methods are positive and force free.  Avoid using fear or aversives, or devices such as pinch or shock collars.  

What to Do
Fist and foremost - make it safe.  Not just for your dog, but for yourself, and those around you.  By making things safe you are setting your dog up for success, but you are helping to change his emotional state and how he feels about a particular scary situation.  Making your home environment safe can include using tools such as a crate, baby gates, head halters, and even a muzzle - your goal is to make things safe by physically preventing your dog from coming into contact with unfamiliar people or situations unless you are prepared to work through the issue.  Outside of the home environment you can make sure you avoid scary situations - when out for a walk avoid crowded areas, like parks and city streets.  If walking near your home, you can always cross the street to build distance between your dog and an approaching person.

Once you have made things safe, the next step is to figure out exactly what it is that scares your dog, and elicits his fear behavior.  Sometimes these things can be very general, other times they can be pretty specific.  It's important to know exactly what it is that your dog is afraid of - we like to call these "triggers" - once you know your fearful dog's triggers, you can structure a training program and begin to work on them specifically.  You can even separate these triggers and work on them one at a time.  

In addition to making a list of triggers, it's important to also figure out what your dog really LOVES. Food works well for most dogs - but not just any food will do; training treats should be something tasty and special that the dog will do anything for!  Don't dismay if your dog isn't a chow hound, some dogs prefer toys or opportunities to play rather than food - anything that your dog loves (food or a toy) can be used as a reward.  

Once we've identified the things our fearful dogs are scared of (triggers) as well as what our dogs love (reinforcers) we can begin counter conditioning and changing their idea about what scares them. The basis of this counter conditioning is to introduce the dog to a very low intensity trigger (something low enough that it doesn't quite elicit a fear response) and reinforce him with something very high value that he enjoys.  When working on on over coming a fear response, it's important to remember that you must control the environment in a way that the dog never encounters what he is afraid of unless you are in a position to reward him and work through his fear.  

• For example: If my dog is afraid of strangers, and when they are near he is barking, and possibly snapping at them.  I will find a distance, say 50 feet, where he can comfortably watch new people without reacting.  I will reward him over and over from 50 feet away, until he is comfortable in the presence of strangers from this distance.  

The amount of time needed is dependent on each dog as an individual.  Just remember, you are trying to create events where the reaction you desire happens over and over so that the dog gains confidence.  Don't move on until your dog is anticipating something good happening when he sees this low stimulation version of a trigger.  

The next step in training is to gradually increase the intensity of the trigger you are working on.

• So, for example, if you are still working on the fear of strangers mentioned above, once your dog is comfortable at a particular distance, you can gradually decrease the distance between the dog and strange people, rewarding at each distance, until he is comfortable even when he is nearby strangers.  You may progress from 50 feet, to 45 feet, to 40 feet, and so on until the strangers are relatively close and the dog is comfortable and no longer showing signs of fear, but instead is looking forward to the reinforcer he has begun to anticipate in the presence of the tripper.    

To sort of sum up Counter Conditioning - here's another Doggie Drawing:

While helpful, this advice should never take the place of professional help!  If you ever feel lost, or in over your head, don't hesitate to contact me, or another force free, positive trainer to help work through your dog's fear! 

Some great resources include:
BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training
The Yellow Dog Project
Fearful Dogs.com

Agility in a Nutshell

• What it is: Dogs and their handlers negotiate obstacles on a preset course in a race against the clock
  
• Prior Training: Basic Obedience, as well as the dog being able to focus, learn and perform complex behaviors in a very distracting environment.  
• Physical Demands on Dog: High
• Physical Demands on Handler: High
• Most suitable breeds: Herding breeds, various mixed breeds.  This is a very physically strenuous sport.  Dogs should be very fit and carrying no extra weight.
• Best Temperament: Happy-go-lucky, workaholics; dogs should be physically fit and active, and should be ready to play and train.  
• Training Complexity: High
• Mental Stimulation: High
• Physical Stimulation: High 
• Recreational Opportunities: Good - there are many "recreational" agility classes available.  
• Opportunities to Compete: High - there are many venues - both indoor and outdoor - and many opportunities for handler/dog teams to compete.
• Cost: High 

About the Sport
One of the most popular dog sports, in agility your dog gets to do what he or she does best - run, jump, climb, and play!  Sometimes called "Obedience in Motion", in agility a handler directs their dog through an obstacle course composed of tunnels, jumps, contact obstacles, and weave poles.  In an effort to beat the clock, teams strive to perform under a "standard course time" and without causing any "faults" (which include things such as knocking down jump bars, going around or missing an obstacle, refusing an obstacle, failing to touch a "contact zone" of an obstacle, or going over the "standard course time").
The rules for competition in the various sanctioned organizations vary slightly, as well as the types of different games offered.  Typically the "Novice" level has more lenient rules, with fewer obstacles and longer course times; with difficulty increasing as dogs progress through the levels of competition.
Agility training involves teaching team members on both ends of the leash.  The dog should be taught proper and safe obstacle performance of all agility obstacles, while the handler needs to learn how to teach their dog the obstacles, rules of various sanctioning organizations (if they plan on competing), as well as various handling skills (when and how to use both verbal and physical cues to direct the dog around the course).

History of the Sport
Agility began in the United Kingdom in 1978.  It was originally intended as a demonstration to entertain the audience at the annual Crufts Dog Show.  Although some accredit the begining of the sport to a demonstration done by the Royal Air Force Police Dog Demonstration Team, it was the Crufts demonstration that caught the eye of the public.  
By 1979 several local training clubs began offering the sport to dog owners, and by 1980 Britain's Kennel Club had established rules for competition.
During the 1980's, Agility began gaining popularity in the United States.  By the early 1990's, several organizations began to form, created rules, and began holding competitions.   

Obstacles Seen in Agility

• A-Frame
  
• Dogwalk
• Teeter-Totter
• Pause Table
• Bar Jumps (single, double, triple, winged, non-winged)
• Tire Jump
• Broad Jump
• Pipe (Open) Tunnel
• Chute (Closed) Tunnel
• Weave Poles

Sanctioning Organizations

• The American Kennel Club (AKC)
  
• The Australian Shepherd Club of American (ASCA)
• Canine Performance Events (CPE)
• Dogs on Course in North American (DOCNA)
• North American Dog Agility Council (NADAC)
• Teacup Agility (TDAA)
• United Kennel Club (UKC)
• United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA)

How to get Started
Dogs should be at least 8-10 months before beginning agility training; and even then, jumping should be kept to a minimum until growth plates have closed (this depends not only on the breed, but the individual dog).  If you are considering doing Agility with your dog, I strongly suggest talking to your vet and getting an approval to begin training.  Before enrolling in an agility class, it is important that both the dog and handler are able to work in a very distracting environment, and have mastered basic pet manners as well as a bit of basic obedience.  Helpful behaviors to know include: sit, down, stay, coming when called. and basic leash manners.

Basic Supplies Needed
Equipment is typically in class only - there are a lot of skills that can be taught and worked on at home without using obstacles.  Homemade obstacles can be constructed inexpensively, but aren't necessary.  
Equipment needed for classes typically includes:

• Flat or buckle collar
• 4-6 foot nylon or leather leash
• Treats or toys to reward the dog

Books

• Agility Right From The Start by Emelie Johnson Vegh and Eva Bertilsson
• Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt
• Shaping Success by Susan Garrett
• Do It Yourself Agility Equipment by Jim Hutchins

Other Resources

• Affordable Agility Equipment - Agility Equipment 
• Agility Nerd - Agility Blog
• Clean Run LLC - One of the most comprehensive resources, they have a magazine, training articles, courses, books, videos, toys, treats, and some equipment.
  
• J and J Dog Supplies - Equipment 
• M.A.D. Agility - Equipment
• Max 200 - Equipment

Local Clubs

• Greater St. Louis Agility Club (GSLAC)

A few weekends ago I was lucky enough to be able to attend Dr. Jimi Cook's seminar on Canine Conditioning and Injury Prevention - a huge thanks to my dog club (Riverfront Working Dog Club) for hosting it.  During the seminar, Dr' Cook talked about the importance of not only conditioning your dog for work, giving them the proper warm-up and cool-down period, but also of cross training.  I've done a lot of cross training with my own personal dogs; when I was introducing Inigo to Dr. Cook for his evaluation, I highlighted some of the sports that we currently train in (IPO/Schutzhund, Agility, Dock Diving, Nosework, Barn Hunt, Flyball, Disc Dogs, Rally and Competition Obedience, and even a little bit of Weight Pull).  

While all of this seems no big deal to me, I realized that not everyone has access, or has been exposed to much more than walking their dog and basic tricks. 

Benefits of Training Your Dog
Again, to me this is sort of a given, but I forget how many people don't even think twice about training their dog.  Not simply for good manners, a little training goes a long way!  It can:

• Strengthen the bond between you and your dog.
• Create a path of clear communication between you and your dog.
• Act as both physical and mental stimulation for your dog.
• Alleviate boredom and prevent unwanted bad behaviors and habits.

Dog Sports 
More than simply basic obedience, Dog Sports are an outlet for you and your dog to enjoy each others' company, to appreciate each others' strengths, and to build up each others' weaknesses. Some of the more well known Dog Sports include:

• Agility
• Barn Hunt
• Dock Diving
• Rally Obedience
• Lure Coursing
• Flyball
• Nosework
• IPO (Schutzhund)
• Herding
• Caning Freestyle
• Weight Pull

Benefits of Cross Training Your Dog
Just like a human athlete - your dog needs to be conditioned to the sports you would like to participate in.  Contrary to popular belief, a dog sport shouldn't be selected for the purpose of getting your dog to loose weight (there are other activities for that) while dog sports are a great way to keep your dogs exercised and in good body condition, a healthy weight should be maintained prior to beginning training in a dog sport.  If you've ever followed human sports, you will notice that successful athletes, while they may strive specifically in one sport, routinely participate in various different sports.  More often than not, these different sports all require very different skill sets - we call this cross training; and like their human counterparts, canine athletes can also benefit tremendously from participating and training in varying sports.  Benefits of cross training include: 

• Strengthens the bond between you and your dog. 
• Prevention of boredom and monotony from working the same skills repetitively.
• Exercise and conditioning of all of the muscles in the body (since different sports and skills require the use of different muscles).

I realize that not everyone is lucky enough to have been given the exposure of such a wide variety if activities to enjoy with their dog - to hopefully help expand your horizons, I plan on highlighting a different dog sport each month.  Happy training! 

Recently I joined an online group to participate in a "holiday" of sorts, known as Positive Monday. The premise behind it is for one day only, you'll focus on the positive - no griping, whining, or feeling sorry for yourself - just smile, spread the joy, and think about the positive things in your life!  I thought that it's a great idea; I know i have a lot that I can be positive about!  Even when focusing on the positive tings in life - I'm not one who is prone to over emotional "Disney moments", but every once in a while (as the focus of this holiday), they are good for the soul.  So grab a tissue and hang on, or feel free to skip my soap box.

For those of you who know me well, the first 2 years or so with Igo had been a bit of rough go.  In March of 2011 I was shipped the BEST Malinois, or dog for that matter, that anyone could ask for.  From the very beginning Vyper was special - and I bonded to him harder than I ever thought I could.  He was the PERFECT dog for Schutzhund, Agility, Obedience, Dock Diving - anything I could imagine.  So when, at 9 months of age, we discovered he had bad hips I was devastated.  But thanks to an amazing breeder, and now a great friend, I was promised a new puppy to take his place.  It was bittersweet, but I was still excited.  

In July of 2012, my new puppy was ready to come home, but it was too hot for him to fly.  That wouldn't delay his arrival though, it's never too hot to road trip across five states to pick out a puppy!  So despite driving 22 hours in a 48 hour period, it was a blast; and after two sessions of puppy selection tests, I had narrowed my choices down to one of two little 8 week old male maligators.  They tested the same, the only difference between the two was that they came from two different litters.  Naturally, I chose the pup who shared Vyper's dad - I wanted another Vyper.  So now that I'd made my decision, I had to name the little monster - out of the "I" litter, he would be called "Inigo vom Logan Haus", "Igo" for short.  I had high hopes for my little monster, and no sooner did we get home, then training began!  

It didn't take long for me to see, that another Vyper - he was not.  He was healthy, strong, good looking, and full of drive - a picture perfect Malinois puppy - but he wasn't Vyper, and I had a really hard time accepting him because of it.  Where Vyper was focused, Igo was not.  Where Vyper was driven to work with me, Igo was not.  Where Vyper was quick, and eager to learn, Igo most definitely was not.  Vyper was uncanny in his ability to learn new things with minimal training (it was a continual joke, that I left training articles in his kennel at night for him to read and learn while he was put away), Igo quickly learned some rather choice nicknames thanks to his apparent lack of aptitude (it wasn't uncommon for him to show a behavior very well in one training session, only to act completely dumbfounded by the same behavior in the very next session).  If it could be possible for a dog could have a learning disability - there were times that I would say Igo had one.  

It wasn't just in training that Igo was a challenge.  On a daily basis, Igo drove me crazy.  "Watch your face, he headbutts" is something all of my friends have heard as we struggled with his social skills when greeting people.  He was overly exuberant in everything he did - my family wanted nothing to do with him, and I felt I needed people to sign a waiver before letting him interact with them.  There was never any ill intent in anything he did, but he was like a bull in a china shop - he even accidentally broke my nose one time after training!  

Thus he grew, in the shadow of his brother, doing everything in his own way, and driving me crazy in the process.  As 2 years old quickly approached, it became harder and harder not to compare him to Vyper - who at that age already had his BH, was showing in Agility and had titled in CPE Agility, and was competing and titled in Dock Diving.  As best we could, Igo and I kept working and trucking along.  We trained 3 times a week with our local IPO Club (Riverfront Working Dog Club), we trained 2-3 times a week in Agility, and (weather permitting) we trained 2-3 times a week at the lake for Dock Diving.  I wasn't sure if we would ever be ready, but I had to give competition a try - after all, Vyper was a seasoned competitor at this age, and I was chomping at the bit.

In February of 2014, I entered him in the Dock Dogs competition at the Progressive St. Louis Boat and Sport Show.  We tried for 3 days, without success, to get him to jump off of the dock.  He loved to swim (I'd introduced him to the lake when he was 8 weeks old) and he loved to chase toys out into the water - but ask him to jump off a dock?  Surely there was molten lava down below!

Barn hunt, on the other hand, came naturally to him - he's a feisty red tornado, and who doesn't want to try and kill a rat?!  He qualified in one of his 2 attempts and received a leg (out of three needed) to earn his Novice title.

In May of 2014 we entered our first CPE Agility trial.  I entered him in a trial hosted by a local club, whose members I knew, to take some of the pressure off of me.  I purposely chose our first venue at an indoor soccer park - that way he couldn't get out of the solid walls surrounding the ring - unless of course you fine the ONE exit in the entire place.  Our first attempt at an agility trial was almost an un-salvageable disaster.  Thank god Taco and Vyper decided to have great days, so I looked like I did in fact belong in the ring as a competitor.  But for Igo, clearly we didn't remember what Agility was.      

Needless to say, I was a bit discouraged.  Of all my dogs, not one of them was quite like my Igo.  He was a knucklehead, a bull, a total goof, and really hard for me to get along with.  I needed a break - and he needed someone more understanding to his quirks and motivations - together, we both needed to grow. 

And then, seemingly overnight, things started to change.  I don't know why, or what caused it - maybe there was a part of me that realized that I needed to try harder with him, to love him more, and accept him no matter what; maybe there was a part of him that realized I needed a team mate and not a sparring partner.

On a whim, I entered him in Gateway Dock Dogs Camp Bow Wow Splash for Rescues Dock Dogs competition, held at Eckert's Orchard in Belleville, IL.  It was a pretty crowded venue, lots of people and dogs (competitors, adoptable pets, volunteers, spectators, and press).  There were a lot of choices for Igo to make - and he chose to shine.  Waiting in line we practiced obedience - he worked like a pro despite the distractions.  Off leash on the dock, he was all work and ready to go - his first Big Air jumps were a respectable 11'6" and 12'3", ranking him overall 8th place in the Junior division for the weekend - not bad for a dog who wouldn't even jump off of the dock just a few weeks before.  In Extreme Vertical, he really made me proud.  I introduced him to the sport 6 days prior - so on a new dock, with lots of distractions, he didn't perform as well as he had in practice - but I have no complaints, and couldn't be more proud.  He started the competition at 5' and had no trouble grabbing 5'2", 5'4", 5'6" and 5'8" - he missed 5'10", but it was close enough to set the bumper swaying while he fell empty mouthed.  His effort though was good enough to land him 2nd Place over all for Extreme Vertical.

We continued to Dock Dive throughout the summer and into the fall.  He attended various outdoor competitions and really started to find his groove on the dock.  By the end of the season, he had earned his Senior Division Big Air Title and achieved a personal best jump of 19'7".  In Extreme Vertical he surpassed 6' of height.  He figured out Speed Retrieve on his first try, and in one competition he even had an improvement of one whole second between his first and second attempt!  He competed as an Iron Dog (meaning he competed in Big Air, Extreme Vertical, and Speed Retrieve all in one competition) and even took Third Place overall.

He continued his forward movement in Barn Hunt, finishing off his Novice Title and earning 2 out of 3 legs towards his Open title, and even adding a few "High In Trial" recognition ribbons to his achievements.
  
His successes in Dock Diving and Barn Hunt were very encouraging for the both of us; but it was his Agility and his Obedience that we really noteworthy accomplishments.  Each good run, and even some of his bad runs, made me appreciate him all the more - silly quirks and all! 

We decided to enter out second Agility trial in October.  While he was still his goofball, puppy self, there was so much more dog than I had just six months before.   The few mistakes he made were sheer lack of experience , but mistakes or not - he was really with me, and trying his best!  We qualified in two of our four runs that day, and gained a great experience in the ring.  November brought another Agility trial, and three out of four qualifying runs, as well as a new title, were earned that day.  He worked harder than I could have asked for, and I was prouder than ever at my special, silly guy.  

Finally, December rolled around, and Riverfront Working Dog Club was having our annual Fall trial. This is something that the boys and I work hard all year for - it was going to be Igo's debut into the world of IPO competition.  It was exciting and nerve wracking all at once - an almost 10 minute obedience routine, both on and off leash, with another dog and a few people on the field, and no rewards -  but we both kept it together, we worked our butts off, and together we earned his BH title!  

2014 with Igo was better than I ever imagined.  He taught me why it can be detrimental to compare one dog to another, he taught me to be a better dog trainer, but most importantly he showed me what a wonderful boy he can be, as long as I give him the chance.  

Here's to you buddy - thanks for shining through and clearing out the stars in my eyes!   

Two are better than one!
Not!  I hear it all the time, what's one more puppy?  They can grow up together, keep each other busy, wear each other out...The list goes on and on.  Unfortunately, no one mentions that two puppies are really just double the trouble!  BOTH will need training, BOTH have no bladder control, BOTH of them need exercise and mental (not just physical) stimulation, and mischief making is more fun when you have a friend to join you.  Not only can raising two puppies together be double the work, but it can sometimes lead to what many animal experts refer to as "Littermate Syndrome".  Puppies raised together can miss out a lot on the animal/human bond, so caught up in each other, they have no reason to bond with their human family.  Littermates raised together can have a greater chance of being fearful to new experiences later in life.  Having never spent time alone, littermates raised togethercan often show severe stress or anxiety when separated, even for a short period of time.  Here's a link to a wonderful article talking more in depth about this:

• Don't Take Two Littermates  
  

Puppy's Homecoming
Nothing can beat the excitement of a new puppy - unfortunately this isn't something the puppy necessarily understands.  Leaving it's mother, littermates, and the place it has called home for the first 8-12 weeks of a puppy's life can be a pretty overwhelming experience.  Don't add to the excitement by inviting every member of your extended family and your entire work place over to meet the new puppy.  Family members living in the home with the puppy, and maybe a close friend are plenty to wear a puppy out.  Keep things simple, and keep things quiet - give the puppy a few days at least to acclimate to it's new home and family.

Puppies need structure, they need a routine.  A big mistake many new puppy owners make is bringing home a puppy while they are off work for a period of time on vacation.  While this seems like a great way to shower the puppy with love and attention, it can create a bit of anxiety when this new routine changes and you go back to work.  Planning homecoming for the weekend is totally fine, but be sure to give the puppy a bit of alone time, and keep your sleeping habits close to your normal, so that the puppy isn't shocked when you go back to work.

Crate Training and Confinement
As your puppy grows, crates and exercise pens will be your best friend!  New puppies are inquisitive, they are active, think of them as mouths on legs - ingesting, chomping, and shredding anything in their path.  There is only so much "Puppy proofing" you can do to your house, having a plan for confinement will give you little bits of peace, whether you are home or away.  

Crates come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and design.  Petmate is one of my favorite brands.  When selecting a crate, it's important to select an appropriate size - your puppy should be able to comfortably stand, sit, and lie down without any constriction of its body.

Crate training is one of the hardest things for new pet parents to follow through with.  It's not uncommon for a new puppy, alone from its family for the first time, to scream and wail when expected to stay in a crate.  Whatever you do, don't give in, and don't feel sorry for your pup - you'll be glad you toughed it out!  Some things you can do to ease introduction to a new crate include:

• Be sure the crate is located in a high traffic area - like a living room, or in a bed room at night; that way the pup doesn't feel alone or secluded. 
• You can feed your pup at least one of his (multiple) meals in the crate - this will give a positive association to being in the crate.
• Offer a special toy - such as a stuffed Kong or another safe chewing toy (I'll talk more about some of these below) - that the puppy only has access to while in the crate.
• Wear the puppy out prior to putting him or her in the crate - a tired puppy is more likely to be grateful for, and relax in the peace and quiet of the crate.  

Potty Training
Potty training can go quickly, or slowly, depending on how diligent and dedicated you are to the process.  There are a variety of different ways to potty train, including a yard, potty pads, litter boxes, and more - there's one to fit everyone's needs and living situations.

Emptying a full bladder is a wonderful feeling for a puppy - they don't care where they empty it - it's up to us to show them what we expect!  Too much freedom too fast is a big downfall when starting potty training - your puppy isn't pottying in another room to be sneaky, he or she just wants to be clean, why would they potty in the same room we are all hanging out in?  Some things to keep in mind to ease the potty training process include:

• Putting your puppy on a feeding schedule - no free feeding!  If you know when he or she has eaten, you will know when he or she needs to go outside.
• Offer water with meals, after play time, or any other time the puppy is supervised.  Pick up water a few hours before bed time - this will help the puppy to be able to empty their bladder before going to sleep, and increasing the likelihood that they sleep all night.
• Take your pup out the same door each time.
• Take your pup outside after meals, after waking up, and after a rigorous play session.
• Praise and reward your pup for any successful potty excursions outside.
• Accidents discovered after the fact should be corrected by swatting yourself with a rolled up newspaper - you weren't watching your puppy closely enough!
• Be sure to clean any accidents well with a cleaner designed for animals, such as Nature's Miracle or the pet specific products from Simple Green.  

Socializing
Not all socializing is created equal!  Puppy socialization should be introducing your puppy to a variety of people, animals, places, and things to help it deal with the variety of things it will encounter throughout his or her life.  These experiences should be POSITIVE, and stress free for your puppy.  A big mistake of socialization made by new puppy owners is throwing their puppy in a variety of uncontrolled and potentially scary situations.  Socialization is only productive if the puppy leaves feeling good about the situation.  Some Socialization tips include:

• Enroll in a puppy class, or a structured "Puppy Play Group"
• Take your puppy to pet friendly places and let them meet new people
• Be sure to bring tasty treats along to your outings so you can reward your pup and make sure they have a positive experience
• Visit your veterinarian's office just to say hi and to socialize, without needing shots 
• Dr. Sophia Yin has a wonderful list for Socialization

Exercise - both Physical and Mental
A tired puppy is a well behaved puppy!  Let them run, romp, play and expend all that puppy energy - but keep in mind that they are growing, and don't force things like long hikes, running along side a bike, mile long walks, jumping and climbing over obstacles, etc.  Forced exercise can do more harm than good to growing puppies and their still forming bones and open growth plates.  You can wear them out mentally with basic obedience, as well as trick training.  You can also use puzzle toys and food dispensers such as Kong Wobblers, stuffed Kongs, and Buster Cubes.


Early Training
While it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks - it's never too early to start working with and training your new puppy!  Starting early allows you to mold your pup into the dog you'd like him or her to become, and it insures that you prevent any bad behaviors from becoming habits.  When deciding on which behaviors are appropriate and which behaviors aren't, I like to remind new pet owners to think "will I like this if/when my pup weighs 80lbs?"  If you accept a behavior now, it's very difficult to change the rules later on.  Some behaviors that are great to teach your new puppy include:

• Sit
• Down (as in lay down on the ground)
• Come when called
• Walking on a leash
• Leave-it
• No jumping
• No puppy mouthing/play biting

Too Much Training
While it's great to start training as soon as possible - it's important to make sure you allow some "down time" to allow the puppy to just be a puppy.  This doesn't mean that it's a free for all, and to allow the rules go out the window, but remember that your puppy is just a baby and he or she needs time to relax in addition to train.  This mistake is made more often with puppies purchased with an intended purpose, or "job" in mind.  Don't push your pup too far too fast, teach them good behaviors, teach them to have fun, teach them to love training, and let them grow up to be happy and well adjusted dogs.  

Happy Training - and enjoy your puppy!